すも!

I was lucky enough to be in Tokyo for the January Sumo Tournament- one of the three Sumo tournaments that visit Tokyo annually. It was day 7 of a 15 day event and a Friday so the crowds were pretty impressive for an event only halfway through its course. The sport of sumo is deeply steeped in history and tradition. It was a learning event as much as a sporting event and it kept me enthralled since the moment I walked into the arena.

Ah, where to begin! We have so much to cover, ladies and gentlemen. Sumo's origins date back to prehistory but enters historical writings around the eighth century. Sumo also appears in Japanese mythology and a popular story details that the fate of the Japanese people was won in a Sumo match between two gods. Sumo took the shape that it is presently in the Edo period of Japan. Sumo is closely tied to to both military and religion and has been used as a military training tool and as a way to offer prayer. More on the religious aspects to follow. The sport gradually became more spectator friendly as it moved into the royal courts and as new rules and techniques were applied. Approximately 4 centuries ago, the Nihon Sumo Kyokai (Japan Grand Sumo Association) was formed. This is the same organization that governs professional Sumo today. Over the course of history, Sumo grew from a no-holds-barred battle to the death of the ancients into the sport that is so much more than a contest of strength.
The three tournaments that take place in Tokyo (three more are held elsewhere in Japan) are held in the Ryogoku Kokugikan. This building has the capacity for 13000 spectators and is sometimes used for other events such as boxing and concerts. As we approached the Kokugikan, banners which bore the names of the wrestlers marked the road. Large murals which depicted wrestlers and previous Sumo matches were displayed on the outer walls. We entered and set to finding our seats. My Aunt, Uncle and I somehow managed to ask for directions, understood them and then amazingly enough, found them. Before we sat down, we payed a visit to the concession stand where we picked up some nuts, beverage and dried squid. Unfortunately, the bento boxes where sold out. A bento is a typical inexpensive lunch tray that houses all sorts of goodies and is popular with students and businessmen. During tournament time, the concession stand sells each of the top wrestler's favorite bento. Also available at the stand is a dish called chanko-nabe. Chanko is what the wrestlers eat to bulk up. The wrestlers eat this stew twice a day and is full of all sorts of things. Basically whatever is available goes into the chanko. Popular ingredients include vegetables: bok choy, daikon, meat products: chicken, fish, beef. Also, no Japanese dish would be complete without a little bit of rice and beer to up the caloric intake. Another little tasty nugget of trivia- during tournament time, the only meat that is put in the chanko is chicken because the hope is that the wrestler will stay on two feet during his match.
In the middle of the arena stands the dohyo- the platform on which all of the wrestling takes place. The Dohyo is a square platform of clay and is covered witha very fine sand. The ring is formed by rice bales buried in the clay. Suspended above is a roof which resembles that of a Shinto shrine with four tassels hanging from the corners which represent the four seasons and four cardinal directions. In between the matches, the sand on the Dohyo is brushed to make sure the wrestlers have an even footing. The sand is also used to determine if a wrestler has touched the ground with a part of his body besides the feet.

There are many people involved in the matches to make sure it all runs according to plan.

Yobidashi- The Yobidashi is the go-to guy for the Sumo foundation for all of the odd jobs. The Yobidashi calls the wrestlers to the ring before each match using a traditional song. Other duties of the Yobidashi include building the Dohyo, beating the drums which signal the start and end of a day's tournament, sweep the Dohyo, and traditionally writing songs about Sumo life.

Gyoji- The Giyoji is the referee of the Sumo match. During the match, the Gyoji stands on the Dohyo. The Gyoji starts the match, and the match is only ended when the Gyoji says it is. According to Sumo rules, the match is over when a wrestler is thrown out of the ring or when any part of the wrestler besides the feet touch the ground.

Shimpan- When the Gyoji decides the winner of a tournament, the five Shimpan who sit around the Dohyo can call the decision into consideration. The Shimpan act as the judges of the Sumo tournament.


Rikishi- The Rikishi are the actual wrestlers. Rikishi live and train together in a communal setting where the lower ranked wrestlers serve the higher ranked wrestlers. The tradition of Behya (Sumo stables) is steeped in tradition (what isn't around here?) and rankings play an integral part in the Sumo life.
Alright, now for the partay.

Before the Rikishi enter the ring, they wash their mouths with purified water. This tradition is also found in Shinto temples before worship. Every time the Rikishi enter the Dohyo, they throw salt into the ring to mark the ring as a sacred place and to cast out demons. When they enter the ring, they squat down and show their palms to the Gods to demonstrate they are unarmed. The wrestlers stomp to drive out demons and a face-melting stare-off ensues. The goal of the stare-off is to break the opposing Rikishi's focus and to intimidate them. When the tension finally explodes, the wrestlers lunge at each other with full force. The belt the rikishi wear, the mawashi, is used in the technique of the fighters. The bouts usually last only a few seconds but they are some of the most exciting moments in the sporting world.
The bouts are fought in order of rank. Earlier in the day, the juryo division wrestles. This division is kind of the "minor league" of Sumo. When the juryo division is finished, the maku-uchi take the ring. In the maku-uchi there are more divisions of rank. There are around 15 maegashira, the lowest tier of the maku-uchi division. Above that is the Komusubi. Ahead of the Komusubi is the Sekiwake. The second highest rank a wrestler can attain is the rank of Ozeki which is topped by the highest rank in Sumo, the Grand Yokozuna.
The excitement of a sumo match is hard to beat. We have hundreds of pound of muscle and tactis hurling through space which is only met with resistance by another solid mass of power. Anyone with common sense knows that this collision will prove for an interesting day of entertainment in the ancient and honorable sport of sumo.If anyone is interested, I have more pics and some video of a few of the matches. I couldn't put them up here due to size limitations but if you are interested feel free to shoot me an email.

A Very Tokyo New Year's Day

While Christmas is kind of glanced over here in dear ol' Nippon, New Year's Day is one of the biggest holidays of the year. On this day, it is customary for a family to go pay their respects at a shrine. I had heard that things got pretty hectic around the bigger shrines so, naturally, curiosity got the better of me and I dove headfirst into the mayhem. I visited the biggest shrines in Tokyo which I have previously blogged about, Meiji-jingumae and Asakusa. Meiji-jingumae is just a short walk from the apartment so I went there first. I am in and around this part of town quite a lot and I have never seen it this crowded. I didn't want to get caught up in the mass of people so I stood off to the side and took a few pictures. I'm also a tad skeptical of intruding on religious festivals because I want to retain the sanctity of these events and not just scoop up a dose of fodder for some ol' timey, touristy, blog-based exploitation. My aim is to treat these proceedings in a respectful way that any custom should be treated and not mock them by pretending to take part in them.

Nearly everyone was carrying an ornamented arrow which puzzled me until I did some further research. These arrows are called "Hamaya" which translates literally as a "Demon-breaking arrow." Hamaya have been used since the Edo period as a good luck charm and a talisman of sorts to protect the bearer from evil spirits. The whole town was abuzz and even the areas that have no shrine around were bustling. As I made my way to Asakusa, the trains were packed and the usually quiet train culture was electric. I got off a few stops before the Asakusa station and walked about a half hour to the shrine. Shops were decked out in their finest New Year's decor which include raffia wreaths, lamps and pine boughs. From what I could tell, the colors of the New Year in Japan are white, gold, and a beautiful shade of pale green. The usual deep hues of the streets were brightened with the presence of Kimonos on young and old, male and female. As I got closer to the shrine, the streets slowly became more crowded till I rounded the corner of the road the shrine was on and BAM! PEOPLE! I was still a few blocks away from the shrine but it was hard to move where I wanted to move. I got caught in the wave and moved closer to the shrine. I managed to duck out into a safe spot and stood to observe. There were cops, there were armored cars, there was basically a mini tank and there was humanity. The line to the actual interior of the shrine was a barricaded section down the middle of the street that was guarded against line-cutters, rabble-rousers and the like.
Initially, I was content with observing the festivities from afar and photograph from the safety of my bubble. Well, my plan went awry and my adventurous nature grabbed logic by the throat and forced his resignation. I walked into the heaving throng and was tossed about on a current of revelry. I walked close to the main gate and got swept down one of the side streets of the shrine. Here, movement was dictated solely by the collective mind of the crowd and those who had other ideas were pushed back in line. I realized that I needed to somehow get out of this mess and I saw to my right a couple of policemen ready to open a gate to the center street of the shrine. I held my position for a few moments and as soon as the gate opened, people burst through from both sides. It turns out, this was not a way into the shrine but just a place to cross to the other side. I pushed my way to the other side and found myself in the exact same situation just facing the other way. Like an anxious pimple, I managed to pop out of the bulk of the crowd into a slightly less dense area of the shrine to take a few more photos before making my getaway down the banks of the Sumida-ga river.

Jared Visits the Imperial Palace

The current imperial palace is located on the same plot of land that the Edo Castle inhabited during the 1600's. In 1868, the capital of Japan was moved from Kyoto to Tokyo and the Palace was completed in 1888. This palace complex was destroyed during World War II and rebuilt in the same style. They Imperial palace is the residency of Japan's Imperial family. Visitors cannot enter the palace buildings or the inner gardens but the surrounding gardens are quite a spectacle. The Japanese view of naturals beauty is something to be commented on. Every blade of grass is trimmed uniformly with great precision. The trees are trimmed to exacting specifications with almost a Seussian quality to them. It is so different than the traditional American "rugged is best" look and offers a glimpse into a culture where beauty is in the skillfulness of the craftsman. Plus, those koi in the pond are as big as my arm.

One of the many intriguing things in the outer gardens of the palace was the statue of Kusunoki Masashige. I was curious about his legacy and why his statue was featured so prominently in the gardens. Further research concludes that Masashige is the epitome of Samurai loyalty. To make a long story short, Masahige was a brilliant tactician that willingly obeyed his Emperor, Go-daigo, and led himself and his armies to certain death due to the emperor's decision. It was interesting that he became sort of a patron saint for Kamikaze Pilots in WWII. His last words during his ritual suicide were reportedly, "Shichisei Hōkoku!" which translates to "Would that I had seven lives to give for my country!"

The most intimidating aspect of the palace were the walls. Constructed of stone, these huge walls ring around the entire complex and end in a deep moat. The construction is incredible and the pictures offer hardly any depth to the austerity and impressiveness they exude when you are there in person.

Kamakura

I had my first excursion out of Tokyo. It was quite menacing, actually. It is a 67 minute train ride south from our train station to the Kamakura station. It took me a few tries trying to locate the correct train and I almost got one the wrong train not once, but three times. Thankfully, I managed to find the train that would take me where I needed to go. Phew. It was a long train ride, so I gave myself permission to fall asleep. This was a big step for me since my first few nights here after riding the trains, I had nightmares about falling asleep, missing stops and the like. It was kind of strange to see some countryside after being pent up in the city for a few weeks. When I arrived at Kamakura, I got my bearings by copying a map down in my handy dandy, NOTEBOOK! (My usual procedure when I’m in a new place.) The main attraction in Kamakura is the great Daibutsu. The humongo green Buddha statue that graces the cover of a lot of travel books. The first version of this great Buddha was completed in 1243 but then destroyed by a storm in 1247. In 1252, the statue was rebuilt by the same people who built the first one, Lady Inada and the Priest Joko. All of the funding for this project was raised by Joko and came from devotees. No governmental money or official financial aid was used in the building of this statue. The statue is about 12 meters tall and 12 meters deep. My favorite part of the Buddha was his hands. They were very serene and dignified. Pictures don’t do it justice.

Ameyoko & Ueno

During WWII, Ameyoko was the site of a black market. Now, Ameyoko (candy store alley) is a an eclectic collection of shops underneath a section of JR train tracks. Ameyoko still seems a teeny bit shady due to it’s location, past history and the amazing bargains that are available; exactly what I was looking for. It was a rich experience and there were things to see everywhere. There were all sorts of clothing and accessory stores that had everything from suits to pre-torn jeans. I was also amused by the collection of fish vendors. In the pictures below, those red things are exactly what you think they are. Some things looked appetizing, some things bearable and others I had no desire to be under the same tent with.

There was a light sprinkle when I arrived at the market but as soon as it started to drizzle, it seemed as if everyone in the vicinity had an umbrella except me. *Pop* *Pop* *Pop* Umbrellas of all shapes, sizes and colors appeared out of nowhere. I was the only bare head in a forest of mushroom covered people. I had forgotten to bring my beanie that day so luckily I found one in a 390 yen bin instead of having to pay the 2000 yen average price.

The Ueno park is another huge park that houses many things such as an amphitheater, pond, Buddhist and Shinto shrines, and even a full fledged zoo. I only visited the pond and shrines due to the rain but on the way out, I had a delicious side of grilled squid. In a little shack, there were several squid cuts available to choose from which were then grilled and basted with a delicious sweet sauce. It was served with a chili powder and mayonnaise. A LOT of mayo. It was quite satisfying in a chewy, rubbery manner. Mmmm, Mmmm, good.

Tokyo Tower Ascent: Attempt No. 1

I went to the Tokyo Tower the other day to look around. I was obviously impressed since that is often the aim of sculptures like this. The Japanese take pride that their tower is taller than the Eiffel tower. I guess size really does matter… We were all hoping to go up to the observation deck after a birthday party but the chilluns were tired so we got dinner and went home instead. I got some cool pictures just walking around the base though! It was really neat to see another one of those things most foreigners only see in pictures up close and personal. The Tokyo Tower is an integral part of the skyline and has often reoriented and helped me get my bearings while I’m out on the town. Hopefully next time I will be able to go inside and look around.

Teacher Jared... Ha... Seriously...

I am now an official substitute teacher! My first substituting experience took place last Friday taking the place of one of the playground supervisors. My day was full of keeping the children from destroying each other and keeping as much sand out of their mouths as I could. I was mostly successful with the first one but we're working on the second task... This school has been a good experience thus far. I was invited to go to Sichi-go-san with S's class which is the ritual performed on the three, five and seven year olds (Sichi-go-san's literal translation is three-five-seven). Most of the kids got dressed in Kimonos and we went down the block to a Shinto temple. The priest performed a beautiful ceremony to bless the kids "so they grew and listened to their mommy and daddy." It was pretty cool to be able to see this traditional ritual and get a small taste of the Shinto religion. I love the look and feel of the Shinto temples and I'm surprised by how many there are around town.

Another cool thing about the school is it's location. It is right in the shadow of the Roppongi Hills Mori Tower. One of the tallest buildings in Tokyo, this is just an overall sweet building. It is mostly offices but has a bunch of upscale shops and restaurants inside. I appreciate the building for it's architectural value. I don't know much about that kind of stuff but I like know what I like when I see it.